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.4Raw black crabs are arranged three to a saucer, their bodies no bigger than a quarter; they look larger than that,skittering over the black lava rocks that run out across the beaches of the Islands.Containers of pink lomilomi saltsalmon with flecks of green onion, little dishes of the semisolid beige paste lomi oio (mashed bonefish), baked sweetpotatoes, big round chunks of purple boiled taro, diced taro in coconut milk, paper containers with poi, chunks ofsnowy white haupia, and ready-prepared laulau complete the offerings.The fish market has some unusual specialties: poke of dried fish, for example, as well as whole boiled tako(octopus), brownish red with white suckers, artistically arranged above the counter, or aku or ahi (tuna) eyes the sizeof golf balls.At Mayamasu's the sausages range from char siu sausage"so ono" (so delicious)to Italian, Jawaiianlonganiza, sliced mild Maui Page 240Portuguese sausage"Maui no ka best" (Maui is the best)and Uncle Toney's Portuguese sausage"Ono-ono-licious.Nobody beats Toney's").Or you can purchase ribs, belly or plate, unbleached tripe, honeycomb tripe, small leafbook tripe, fresh chitterlings flown over from Maui, and fresh pig's blood by the quart for $2.79.Kalua Pig(Pit-Cooked Pig)Most people prepare kalua pig in the oven, using liquid smoke.For a long time I scoffed at this as a meretricioussubstitute for pit- or imu-cooked pig.But no longer.It really does taste good.Although at first the smell of liquidsmoke is off-putting, as time passes this changes to an aroma reminiscent of pit-smoked barbecue.Indeed kalua pigis first cousin to mainland barbecue.Best results are obtained with large pieces of meat; you can always shred leftovers and freeze in plastic bags.Somefat is important for flavor, so butt makes better-tasting kalua pig than does leg of pork.Much of the fat then drainsoff during cooking and can be discardedit smells too strongly of smoke to be used for cooking.Ti leaves can beordered from florists and do add to the taste.Dried banana leaves, which are better than nothing, can be found inSoutheast Asian groceries.4 pounds pork butt2 tablespoons salt2 tablespoons liquid smoke1 banana leaf, preferably fresh46 ti leavesScore the roast on all sides and rub in the salt and liquid smoke.Wrap in the banana leaf.Remove the ribs from the tileaves and wrap them over the banana leaf.Tie securely.Wrap the whole parcel in foil and refrigerate overnight.Next day roast at 350 degrees for 4 hours in a pan with water in the bottom.Remove fat from the pan and open thepackage.Shred the pork with your fingers into long pieces.Add any accumulated juices and salt if necessary.Besides eating with poi and laulaus and sweet potatoes as a luau meal, kalua pig is good piled on a bun.Notsurprisingly, it is also excellent, though scarcely traditional, with barbecue sauce. Page 241Chili Pepper WaterChili peppers were among the plants that Don Marin introduced to Hawaii and, like so many other peoples, theHawaiians took to them with enthusiasm.A popular way of serving them was (and is) as chili pepper water: a bottleof chili pepper water sits alongside the soy sauce bottle and the salt and pepper in many households.Any bottle willdo to hold the waterold ketchup bottles or beer bottles with corks are popular.1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon vinegar1 clove garlic, crushed6 small hot red chili peppersSterilize a 16-ounce bottle by boiling in water for a few minutes and allow to cool a little.Bring 2 cups water to aboil.Place salt, vinegar, garlic, and chilies in the bottle.Pour the water into the bottle, stir with a chopstick, andleave for a couple of days to mature.Shake over food to season it, as you would soy sauce or salt and pepper.Yield: 2 cupsDried Aku and Dried Hee (Octopus)Hawaiian households traditionally dried octopus, tuna, and other fish, usually by placing the salted fish in the hotsun for 2 or 3 days.Now they are also produced commercially to make use of a particularly large catch.Intenselyflavored, they are eaten in small pieces as a relish along with onion, salt, and chili pepper. Page 242Ake and Limu Huluhuluwaena(Raw Beef Liver with Seaweed)This poke uses meat, not fish.55 pounds ake (raw beef liver)FlourHawaiian salt½ cup limu huluhuluwaena, a fine-stranded seaweed, salted and chopped1 tablespoon inamona3 finely chopped hot red peppers, optionalCut membranes and veins out of liver and chop into bite-sized pieces.Roll in flour and lomi (massage thoroughly)with the fingers to remove the blood.Rinse.Repeat three times until the flour stays almost white.Add salt and allowto mellow for a day in the refrigerator.Rinse and drain.Add the inamona and the limu to taste and mix well.Servechilled as an appetizer.Dried Shrimp SoupBags of dried shrimp are common in fish markets and in Chinatown for eating as a snack or for adding to Asiandishes [ Pobierz caÅ‚ość w formacie PDF ]